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get emails all the time from people wanting to know
how to make a sling. Other people have sumbitted articles
on braided slings, staff slings, and all sorts, but
not specificaly on a simple sling that anyone could
make. This site has grown to be the definitive source
of sling-related news, discussion, and information,
but it lacked a straightforward sling making guide,
until now hopefully. Enjoy.
First
off, you will need some material for a pouch. I prefer
Leather. It’s got a good feel, it’s durable,
and readily available. I’ll be using a piece of
scrap leather. You can use fabric, like jeans, but they
tend to rip around the hole the cords go through unless
you reinforce them.
To
get a nice symmetrical pouch, I recommend making a paper
template. I recommend using a piece of graph paper.
First, I sketch out a rough pouch shape on the paper
in the dimensions I want. Don’t worry; it doesn’t
have to be perfectly symmetrical. Because it is on graph
paper, follow the pattern and cut out a very crisp rectangle
(keeping the sketch in it). I suggest people aim for
a pouch about 5 inches wide and 2.5 inches tall.
If
you try and cut the edges off individually, it won’t
look as good and take far more time. The easiest way
is to fold your paper in half twice, once one way and
once the other way, much like how you make those paper
snowflakes. You should be looking at one quarter of
your sling.
It
should look like a rectangle. Find the corner that has
four separate layers, each with their own corner. If
you cut it in half diagonally (leaving a triangle),
you’ll have a diamond-shaped pouch. I recommend
you cut off a triangle shaped piece from the midpoints
of each side. Depending on how you folded it, you might
still be able to see your original sketch, which can
give you additional visual clues. Study the pictures
if you are confused. It’s an illustrated guide
for a reason.
Unfold
the paper. You should have cut off the four corners
of your rectangle. You should have a great looking pouch
template in front of you!
Take your paper template and lay it over your pouch
material. Get a pen or marker and draw around the template.
Don’t get sloppy here. Take your time and make
sure you keep the template in place. You should be able
to draw all the way around to your initial point and
match up exactly.
Remove
the template. Voila! You’re ready to cut out your
pouch. I use regular scissors, but a box cutter would
probably work too. You drew those lines on for a reason,
so follow them precisely.
Now,
we need to make holes for your cords to go through.
You can use a leather punch or even a hole punch (for
leather and other tougher materials, it will need to
be pretty heavy duty). If you have neither, you can
try making a hole with scissors. You want a nice, clean,
round hole. The hole should be about a quarter inch
in diameter and be at least a half-inch from the sides
of the pouch. If you make the hole too close to the
sides of the pouch, it might be too weak and rip. If
you are using a weaker material, you might want to consider
strengthening the hole by doubling over the material
or reinforcing it with layers of duck tape. I’ll
let you be inventive.
Ok,
we’ve got a very hansom pouch ready for cords.
You
can use lots of things for cords: Leather works well
and looks traditional. Shoelaces are durable and you
might have some old ones kicking around. Nylon rope
is nice and strong. You can get appropriate cord from
a hardware store very cheap. I like military surplus
parachute cord. It’s strong, flexible, and has
a good feel. As for length, the general rule of thumb
is the distance from your heart to your left hand (extended
outwards). You need to cut two pieces of that length.
If
your going with a synthetic cord, like parachute cord
or nylon, I strongly recommend you melt the ends. This
gives it strength, a better finish, and stops it fraying
(it acts like those little plastic things on the ends
of shoelaces). You can do this by exposing the ends
to a flame (lighter, match, etc). You should see the
material melt into a little ball. If it catches on fire,
blow it out quickly. Be very careful!! The liquidized
material is very hot and will burn you and/or work surfaces.
Also, the fumes are very toxic, so if you’re going
to do this, make sure the area is well ventilated. I
take no responsibility for your actions. If you can’t
handle it, don’t do it. This step is not necessary,
just a nice finishing touch.
Ok,
so we’ve got the cords ready too now. You’re
almost done. I like using a special type of knot pictured
below to tie the cords onto the pouch. Study the picture
a bit, and you’ll figure it out. For people who’ve
picked which side of their pouch if for the projectile
and which is for looks, the picture below shows the
inside of the pouch. You will need to poke the cord
from the outside of the pouch into the interior (where
the projectile sits). If your confused, or don’t
care which side is which, just thread it anyway you
like.
You
will need a loop on the retention cord. You can use
something similar to a yo-yo’s slipknot, or even
a regular knot (like I have). Ideally, you want to be
able to adjust it to provide a snug fit. When I sling,
the retention cord is anchored on my middle finger.
Some people use their index or ring fingers. Others
have a big loop so they can tie it around their wrist.
I urge you to experiment and see what feels natural
for you.
Lastly,
I recommend you put a knot on the release cord. Hold
the sling in your hand, pinching the release cord between
your thumb and index finer. Find the point where the
pouch becomes level. Mark that spot with your finger
and tie a regular old knot in that place. This lets
you quickly slide the release cord to the correct level,
rather than having to keep adjusting it so the rocks
don’t fall out.
And
there you have it… your very own simple sling.
This design has served me well for years and I hope
it will for you too. I’d love to hear how you
get on with it. Drop me a line in the forum.
-
Chris Harrison
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