Casting Styles

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Contents

Introduction

I would like at this point to remind the reader the sling is a weapon and can do real damage to targets intended or not intended. Always practice your slinging where it is safe for you and anyone watching. Secondly practicing any sling cast can not only be dangerous to target; a failed sling cast can be dangerous to the user.

Casting Basics

All casting styles are done in a plane of rotation. Generally the casting style is classified as either in the horizontal or vertical plane:

  • The vertical plane covers all casting styles where the sling is at or close to perpendicular.
  • The horizontal plane covers all casting styles where the sling is at or close to parallel with the ground.

Gripping the Sling

As important to your casting of the sling is your grip on the sling. The grip will affect the way the projectile leaves the sling and thus your accuracy.

Grips and Cord location will be talked about in more depth in Advanced Casting All casting descriptions below are based of the Anatomy of the sling, please familiarise yourself with page before continuing.

Basic Casting Styles

There are many casting styles in existence but they are all based off the basic casts. All viable variants of these cast will be covered in the Advanced Casting Styles.

Overarm (Vertical Plane)

This method is basically a baseball-like pitch, it is a vertical plane sling that releases on the downwards movement of the sling. It is a rotation of the shoulder and elbow. Swing the sling back and forth until you feel there is enough momentum to complete an entire loop. In the overhand method the rotation should come from your knees, up behind you, then over your head. When the pouch circles over your head, lift up your thumb and the rock will fly out.

Underarm (Vertical Plane)

This method is a softball-like pitch; it is a vertical plane sling that releases on the upwards movement of the sling. To start, swing the sling back and forth until you feel there is enough momentum to complete an entire loop. In the underhand method the rotation should come from your knees, up in front of you, then over your head, then behind you. When the sling has rotated back to your knees, lift up your thumb and the rock will fly out.

Helicopter (Horizontal Plane)

This is the 'classic' slinging technique and is widely depicted. You use a stance which can be anywhere from open to closed. The sling arm is raised above the head, and is then whirled about with the shoulder, elbow, and wrist, forming a 'halo' above the slinger. The sling typically rotates counter-clockwise for a right handed slinger. After one to three spins to gain momentum, the release cord is released, projecting the projectile. This cast may be modified, by lowering the arm to chest or waist height after the final momentum-gaining spin, allowing the arm to be extended for increased leverage. See the below Side Release Technique for details.

Advanced Casts

Many of the variant cast either shorten cast time or enhance the power and accuracy behind the cast. What these variants and basic casts don’t take into account is the type of ammunition being used. The grip and release of the sling release cord is the secret to effective slinging with different shaped ammunition.

Advanced Grip and Release

Changing your grip is just about guaranteed to ruin your slinging until you get used to the new grip. So figure on working with the new grip for a few days before you decide whether you like it or not.

Narrow Grip

A narrow grip means that a slinger holds both the retention and release cords together with his thumb and index finger. This type of grip would likely have the pocket behind (or in some cases in front) the stone at the point of release. This grip is more flexible and less wrist action is needed.

Wide Grip

A wide grip means the the retention cord is held apart from the release cord. With a finger loop sling, a slinger would have the loop around his middle, ring or little finger and hold the release with his thumb and index finger. With a toggle sling, the retention cord would come out of the slinger's hand from between his fingers. A wide grip is great for casting things with a spin like a (American) football or a rifle bullet. The finger loop may be on the second (bird), third (ring) or fourth (pinky) fingers (you can also use a toggle, a stick to which the cord is attached.) In any case, if you make sure you have your palm forward at release, you will get a nice rifle-spin. The wider the grip, the easier it is to get a good spin.

Warning: A wide grip does NOT work with short pockets.

You need a long pocket (6 or 7 inches, or 15 to 18 cm) or else your ammo rolls off one end of the pocket and goes somewhere you do not want! As far as accuracy is concerned, I am not as accurate with a wide grip. But a wide grip is great for long distance shots! I have tried four variations on the narrow grip; my accuracy is better with any of these, than with a wide grip. One variation was suggested by L.W. Forsyth, who learned it from an old Apache gentleman who had used that technique his whole life. The finger loop goes around your pinky finger, and the retained cord runs across your palm and passes between your thumb and forefinger. The released cord is gripped between thumb and forefinger. Forsyth did not say whether to keep the release knot "above" or "below" the retained cord. At first, I had the release knot held "above" the retained cord (that is, the release knot was closer to where my thumb and forefinger join my palm, than was the retained cord). Later, somebody (sorry, I don't remember who) suggested that it should be the other way: release knot "below" the retained cord. Trying this, resulted in an immediate improvement in my accuracy.

Cord Placement

Nwmanitou uploaded a picture of how he holds a sling finger loop around second finger as for a wide grip, but the cord runs up the palm and between thumb and forefinger, and the release knot is held between thumb and forefinger "below" the retained cord. Or just go look at the picture below. Anyway, I tried this. Immediate improvement in accuracy! Just to compare, I tried a variation where I held the release knot "above" the retained cord. Wrong choice, my accuracy dropped. I now use Nwmanitou's grip almost always.

Nwmanitou's grip

If you have a "stiff" sling (braided natural fiber, for instance), where the cords cannot twist much, Nwmanitou's grip will give you a fairly consistent rifle-spin if you have your palm edge-on (pinky finger forward) at the moment of release, or a good back-spin if you have your palm forward. If your sling twists (like most of mine, which use nylon paracord), then you have almost no control of how your ammo will spin. This is a problem only if you are slinging tennis balls or other things with a lot of air resistance; they will curve rather quickly off course. Rocks are less of a problem that way.

Oh, yeah, I almost forgot ... all the slings I use now, have a knot on the retained cord as well as at the end of the release cord. The two knots lie side-by-each between my thumb and forefinger, so I always have a consistent grip on the sling. I learned this idea from Knollslinger and Mgreenfield (Knollslinger wrote about it, and MGreenfield brought it to everybody's attention).

Advanced Casting Variants

All Casting Variants are grouped under their parent casts. Rapid fire casting techniques has its own category.

Overarm Across Shoulder

Overarm across the shoulder (For a right hander) Holding the pouch behind your back with your left hand. Right hand, holding the cords, rest just above your right shoulder. The sling is stretched behind your back. From this position, perform an apache style overhead. This style can be used for a surprise attack since it has no wind up and the sling is kept out of sight of the prey or opponent in the ready position.

Greek Overhand

The "Greek style" is derived from the discovery of a Greek coin bearing the image of a slinger. On the coin is a man with one hand holding the pouch of a sling pointed at the target, his other hand holding the sling is near his head. The stance and hand positions are similar to an archer readying to shoot. Since this style uses no rotations to build up momentum, you will need to move your pouch hand, left arm, to the right and then back to the left in the horizontal plane to give the pouch the required angular momentum to start this cast. Once the cast is started the pouch comes back to the left and is pointed at the target, the wrist slightly turns and "flicks" the stone to the left. From there, the throwing arm begins to move keeping tension on the cords, this helps to insure a smooth motion and also keeps the stone securely in place.

The motion of the right arm will vary from person to person, but keep in mind:

  1. The more you come straight down over your head, the less variation from left to right your shots will have. In other words, you will tend to miss high and low rather than left or right. I find that the more "over the head" I throw, the more accurate I am; However, it puts a strain on the shoulder and I do not have as much power for long shots (50+ yards).
  2. The more you go off to the side of your head, the more variation you will have left and right of the target since that is the path of your throwing arm.
  3. Leg motion. I used to pitch in baseball so the leg motion I use feels natural and adds to the power. You can vary the leg motion or keep them fixed but it will affect your power.

Points to remember:

  • Stepping straight at the target helps accuracy.
  • Remember to let go of the release knot! A few slow practice slings will best explain when to let go,
  • the speed you are throwing at will effect when you need to let go. Only practice can teach you that. I find that I am more accurate when I sling at a slower speed. Slowly speed up your motion as you learn

Apache The Technique

(from L.W. Forsyth's article)

Target practice should be approached with an attitude of the hunter. You never know when it might be needed for that purpose and it makes practice more interesting.

Note: To those of you who have practiced by twirling the sling, this Apache method may seem like a very short anti-climax but please give it an honest try. L.W.F.

For the purpose of hunting, practice while standing on uneven ground and from behind partial cover. While hunting, after you've stalked within range (or placed yourself in front of a target while practicing), stand very still while facing your prey with your body at an angle of about 45 or more degrees. Pick an open spot to throw from. You should have previously removed any backpack, gloves, wide-brim hat or heavy coat that is restrictive. Keep the throwing arm side of your body to the rear, hidden from the target's line of sight. Hold your visible arm close to you, across your body. The animal is not necessarily sure you are a human predator until you show your arms. Don't stare directly at the animal until you are ready to aim and throw.

If you have not already loaded the stone, do it now by keeping the sling behind you (out of sight from your prey) with the cords gripped about 2" from the pouch. Insert the stone in the pouch (behind you) and slowly let both cords slide through your hand (behind you) until the pouch stops just above the ground. Quickly concentrate visually on the smallest kill spot possible. Without hesitation and without moving a step, very quickly swing your arm and sling up from behind you and over the top in an overhand throw while attempting to keep your arm as straight and long as you can for airspeed. Put your body fully behind it in a fast turning motion similar to a baseball pitcher but without the step. Be aggressive and make all motions as large as you can. It's usually harder to correct a bad habit than to learn it right the first time. You may try a forward step as you throw but I believe you'll find that it slows you down. The body motion requires more twisting than an Atlatl or Tomahawk throw. The whole action is over from start to stop in less than a second and the arm has swung less than 360 degrees. If your muscles are not used to this motion, start slow and work up to speed over a period of time. Speed and accuracy will only come with daily practice and everyone, male and female is a potential master.

Cartwheel

To throw with this technique, one must first be able to do a cartwheel (side flip). For a slinger who uses the sling on the right hand, he/she must cartwheel from left to right (that is the left hand touch the ground first then right hand) while holding a loaded sling. It is important to keep tension on the sling through out the flip so a sling of the appropriate length (slightly longer than shoulder width) is necessary. Too much slack on the sling would have the ammo fall out of the pocket when it comes off the ground. As the legs flips over, lands on the ground and the upper body come up, the slinger performs a figure 8 or overhand smoothly without losing the momentum of the body's rotation. If performed correctly with good timing, this is one of the most powerful technique for a throw with a short sling.

Figure Eight

Stance

Stand with your left foot in front of your right, with your body turned about 45 degrees right of your target, like you’re going to throw a ball at it. The pouch is held in your left hand, with your left arm held out in the direction of the target. The right hand is held down in front of the right hip.

Grip

There are various ways to hold the ends of the sling. I prefer a bowline that loops around my middle finger. The cord looped to my finger passes between my pinky and ring finger, while the other is pinched between my thumb and index finger.

Throw

With this method, the sling will complete approximately 1-3/4 revolutions, with one of the revolutions completely behind you and perpendicular to the ground. The left hand releases the pouch and projectile. The right arm, staying straight, swings directly away from the target. Once the right arm is parallel with the ground, pointing directly opposite the target, the right arm bends at the elbow, and the pouch and projectile are rotated behind you. Once the pouch has rotated behind you and passes your feet, the real throwing motion begins. The hips turn the torso and shoulders towards the target, and the right arm completes the revolution and the throw with a motion similar to throwing a baseball. See the following video clips for the throw from beginning to end.


Key Points / Variations

In teaching people this method of throwing, there are several key points to remember:

  1. You don’t have to rotate the sling very fast at the beginning, the speed comes at the end of the throw, once the pouch is behind you and down by your feet. The entire motion should be smooth so no slack is created in the sling.
  2. After releasing the sling from your left hand, make sure it swings directly back. This is done with the right arm. The plane the sling is rotating on should be completely parallel with the intended direction of the projectile. If it is, you’ll get a great backspin on your projectile for loft and distance. If the rotational plane is tilted, you’ll end up with slices and hooks as in golf.
  3. Avoid bringing your right hand up over your head, this can cause slack in the string. Just bend your arm at the elbow, and the sling will stay taught.
  4. Practice, practice, practice. These method may seem unnatural at first, but with practice, you’ll find a good rhythm and the motion will seem very natural. You’ll find you can get a low of power from the hips, shoulders, and stomach with this throw.

Figure 1.1

Variations

Once the basic throw method is learned, you can add a skip and a step to increase the distance and power of the throw. You step onto your right as you drop the pouch, and hop and land on your right again as the sling rotates behind you, then step onto your left as you complete the throw.

Figure Eight with full twist

Hold the sling over your head with the pouch and the stone in your left hand. It should point to the target, with the pouch and stone closest to the target.

At the same time as you start twisting the whole body to the left, you let the pouch and stone go with left hand. The sling naturally swings downwards away from the target, and the sling will now go up again and over your head and it will pretty much go by itself to the next step.

When you have turned 180 degrees (so that you're looking in the opposite direction of the target) your right hand should be straight and pointing straight down to the ground.

Now, while turning your body 180 degrees more to the left, so that you'll at the end face the target, bring the sling up behind you. At the moment that you are facing the target the sling should be over your head. Your arm should be bent so that it feels natural for you. You should also point with your left arm to the target now.

The sling will now by itself swing down again. It will almost touch your left arm, but do not let this happen. Follow the sling with your right forearm while the sling takes this turn.

When the sling comes up behind, you will have to release at some moment, usually when the sling is pointing straight up to the sky, or a little before.

You have now done Figure-eight with full twist! It is a powerful technique, you'll be able to throw far with it, but not as good when it comes to target practice, as you cannot see the target the whole time. I have written "target", but it would rather mean the direction you are aiming in.

Figure 8 with multiple spin wind up

Start like a normal figure 8 throw. When the you have droped the sling behind your back, instead of bringing the pouch up to release over your head, keep the sling spining behind your back a multiple number of times. The extended wind up can help build up momentum for a more powerful shot and/or allows the slinger to adjust his/her timing for the right moment to release.

Overarm with Pirouette

A preferred style for long slings and distance (bombardment) with heavy ammo can include a body turning motion known as a Pirouette, this is not a literal copy of any ballet move. The upper body rotates 270 deg at shoulders, while the feet end up close to 180 deg total. Obviously sling length maxes out when arm can’t comfortably manipulate pouch above the ground. Here’s the startup and end in absence of video equipment to capture the intermediate footwork.

EXAMPLE FOR RIGHT HAND CAST TO NORTH DIRECTION(12 o'clock).

  1. With the target at 12 o’clock.
  2. Stand facing south (6 o’clock). Feet about 3/4m apart and pointed to west (9 o'clock), opposite arm down along side body.
  3. Extend sling arm toward west (9 o’clock) while leaning slightly on right foot. Head and eyes turned in same direction. So far the stance resembles a lunge in fencing, except the opposite foot does not point perpendicular to body.
  4. Pendulum the sling to and fro a few times in an approximately 90 deg arc in this same direction.
  5. Commence the delivery by bringing the left leg forward to just past vertical toward west (9 o’clock) while balancing on the right forefoot as sling is pendulumed toward near of its arc.
  6. Start counterclockwise body turn by swinging left leg back to near beginning point.
  7. By the time the left foot has arrived back and pointing toward south (6 o’clock position) the sling is now at the near of pendulum arc.
  8. Accelerate the sling around with straight arm; avoid any “snapping” motion, remember the whole thing starts very slow and smooth. Because the cast starts out gradually any effect from changing the plane of rotation is minimized.
  9. Sling cords will remain in tight arc, outpacing arm movement. [1].
  10. The final position and follow through are identical to one’s usual unassisted overhand throw.The upper torso will bend nearly horizontal as this cast is completed. The slinging arm will have moved through a vertical path even though relative to the torso it was liken to a sidearm.All of the above amounts to a human doing a trebuchet cast with addition of a body turn and the sling slightly changing its plane of rotation. The pendulum motion simulates the trebs ammo trough. [2].
  11. Shorter slings with same ammo need less body rotation, so just start the casts from a more counterclockwise point.

Notes:

[1] Here we have an effect analogous to a water skier moving in a tethered arc. All curved paths traversed by the skier must be done so in an interval matching that of towing boat. The skier must travel faster along the arc. The basic differences in the analogy can be fluid density and boat/arm paths. Water density greatly augments centrifugal effects. Arm path is always in an internal arc, whereas a boat’s is only on occasion. This is what slinging is about, speed of a human arm moving in an internal arc magnified by a projectile moving faster in it’s own keep up arc.

[2] Without a spinning windup a pendulum motion initiates the curved path, seating the projectile is a secondary result.

Underarm

Underarm across the shoulder

Throw much like our traditional underhand.

Hold the pouch in the non-throwing hand, above the non-throwing shoulder. The cords are behind ones shoulders. Pull the pouch tight, let go with non-throwing hand. While whipping under handed with the throwing hand.

Helicopter (Horizontal Plane)

Over hand Release

after the Horizontal Plane is acheived . the throw is executed by waiting to the pouch is in the 6 O clock position then bringing the throwing arm forward in much the same way you toss a over hand baseball pitch

Side Release

Overhead (horizontal) styles can be modified to obtain a range of side release styles, in which the arm and sling are lowered (usually to waist height) before release. In one instance, the slinger draws the slinging elbow in towards the waist before releasing. The side release can also be adapted to a Figure 8 style wind-up.

A variant of the side release begins with the sling stretched horizontally over the shoulder blades, pouch held in the non-slinging hand. Release the pouch, turn the body rapidly through a large arc (about 90 degrees) while bringing the sling hand downward and out from the body. The shoulder movement is similar to that of a golf swing, while keeping the elbow close to the body.

Another variant involves a similar body movement, with the difference that the sling pouch is not held in the non-slinging hand, but instead lays around the neck and over the shoulder to rest on the slinger's chest opposite the slinging arm. The throw motion is as above.

Backhand

This is a side-ways cast. By both using your body and your hands to put speed to the sling, this is a powerful throw, but not very accurate.

  1. Hold the sling horizontal, in front of you, with the pouch in left hand. The cords has to be taut, not slack!
  2. Turn your body 180 degrees to the left, and your sling a little longer.
  3. Move your body quickly to the right, while letting the sling go with left hand, and swinging your right hand to the right, so that both your body and right hand put speed and power to the stone. Think that you swing your right arm to the right in a side-ways throw, and at same time move your body to the right, so that the stone gets more power and speed.
  4. Let go the release cord.

Pirouette/Full spin

For a right-hander, start with your left foot in front and right foot back. Swing the sling over your head anticlockwise like a helicopter throw or get the sling going in that direction with your left hand as in a Greek overhead throw.

When the sling is at a position directly behind you, extend your right arm and take a step forward with your right foot. Keep your upper-body rotating and spin on the ball of your right foot to generate more energy to the sling.

By the time your body is turned all the way around and your back is facing the target the sling would have accelerated and you will have to lift up your right arm and let the sling swing over your head one more time.

Lift your left foot off the ground and let your body continue the turn to face the target again. Let the sling come to the release position and let fly on your right as you put your left foot down towards the target.

This technique is not easy to perform because there are lots of moving parts taking place at the same time. Balance and coordination is also essential. But the result is a very powerful shot with surprising accuracy.

This technique works best with long slings.

Rapid fire Techniques

The rapid fire technique allows a slinger to load the pouch of the sling without stopping. Like every ranged weapon since and before the sling this gives the slinger more chances to hit the target. All of these techniques require you to hold extra ammunition in your non-sling hand and then catch the pouch with that same hand.

Figure eight rapid fire

To prepare for the rapid fire technique have a stone in the sling. In your left hand you have another stone between your thumb and index finger, you can hold one or two extra stones between your palm and pinky and ring finger.

Starting the sling

Your sling can hang straight down, there is no need to hold the pouch in the left hand; Which makes easier since your non-sling hand is holding the additional stones.

Do a regular figure-eight cast.

Catching the pouch and retention cord

When the cast is done the sling will come downwards in front of you. Catch the sling with non-sling (left) hand, and slide your hand up so that you will be holding in the pouch. At the same time as you’re sliding to the pouch, do a movement with your left hand that will swing the release cord back so that you can catch the release knot with your sling (right) hand, you’ll probably have to slide a little here too.

Continuing the casting

The index finger and thumb which holds the stone should be at the inside of the pouch. Then carefully let the stone lay back in the pouch, so that it’ll keep there without your fingers holding it in place. It is easier to make the stone lay secure in the pouch if you, while doing this, if you hold the pouch a little between middle and index finger.

Note: If the above is done properly you will be able to swing the sling behind you and up like a regular figure-eight.

With more ammunition

This is only if you had one or two stones kept between your palm and pinky and ring finger: While doing the figure-eight cast you will have to take one the other stones with your thumb and index finger, making it ready to when the sling will come down in front of you. Continue as before.

Note: It is a good idea to practice without stones until you are able to catch the sling. This for safety, and that you will learn it faster then. When you are able to do that without much trouble, start using one stone and move up from there.

Practice, practice, this is a complicated technique which takes time to learn!

Helicopter

This cast is known as helicopter rapid fire, but it is better to compare it with a greek overhand technique. This technique requires more practicing than the figure-8 rapid fire, but you will use less time between releasing each stone as you only have one sling-rotation. It is not as powerful as the figure-8, but looks better.

Stance

Like the beginning of the greek overhand cast, like an archer ready to shoot.

Starting the Sling

Swing the sling over your head and release before the sling has done 360 degrees.

Catching pouch and retention cord

Catch the sling with the fingers holding the first stone and the others on your left hand. The release cord will automatically start the swing back to your right hand, but won't make it without a little help from the left hand. While doing this, put the stone in the pouch and swing the sling over your head and release.

If you have more stones in your left hand, do the same thing over again.

Safety Warning

When catching the sling with your left hand, do not take your left hand down. The sling should be caught at the same level as the sling is at during the rest of the throw. The sling should always be at the same height, it is your hand that should come up to put a stone in the pouch!

Both hands

It is best to start practicing this style using two slings of similar size, ability and style, because then it is easier to practice the throw without worrying about the inconsistencies in the slings.

Also, before trying this style, one should practice slinging with the hand that is not normally used for slinging. If you are not comfortable with using both hands one at a time, then it will be difficult to use both hands at the same time

Underarm

Once you are ready to begin, take up a sling in each hand. put both finger loops on to your fingers and grip the release nodes as though you would normally do. Place the sling pouches on the ground so that they are open. Place a bullet into each pouch and slowly stand up and lift the slings off of the ground, letting the bullets settle into the pouch.

Swing the slings back and forth in a vertical plane parallel to your body until you feel that there is enough momentum to complete a full rotation up and over your head and then back down to your knees. you can swing the slings around as many times as you like, but many rotations are not necessary. If you are familiar with the underhand technique, then you will release at the same time as usual.

Let go of both release nodes at the appropriate time and the bullets should go flying.

Overarm

Repeat the above steps, except swing the slings in the opposite direction so as to release in the overhand style. Sidearm with underhand windup

Repeat the preliminary steps as described above, then continure as follows.

Swing the slings in a vertical plane parallel to your body as with the underhand style, but when releasing swing both slings across the front of your body and and release in a horizontal plane. This is the most difficult form of this style because if the slings are released at the same height above the ground they will tangle and make a mess of everything. It is neccesary with this form of this style to release one sling lower, perhaps at waist height, and release one sling higher, perhaps at shoulder height.

With this style I find that there are no advantages over the other single handed styles, and in fact I feel that there are some disadvantages.

With this style it is harder to reload quickly and efficiently because both hands are occupied with slings.

This style makes it far more difficult to be accurate and powerful because of the focus required to operate both slings at the same time. When experimenting with this style, I found that I had much less power than with one sling, mostly because I had to work so hard to keep from messing up.

In conclusion, I feel that this style is not really effective for anything except as a trick to show off the sling.